Simplicity 8511 Dress

Hi Everyone!

Well I finished my first goal of 2018!  At the top of my list was Simplicity 8511

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I had decided to do view A.  To me working in an office, I thought the sleeves would work best for me.  I am sitting most of the day working with numbers, I know fun, right!

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The fabric suggestions were:

Cotton Type, Crepe, Back Satin, Dupioni, Jacquards, lightweight Linen, or Taffeta.

I have recently ordered this great color CobaltBlue cotton yarn fabric from Fabric Mart.

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I thought this dress would be so cute in the cobolt blue, with the sleeves and neckline being in the lighter turquoise color.  I really don’t know where the turquoise color fabric came from and I only had 1/2 yard of the turquoise.

Off to work!

Pattern Cutting:

I cut out a size 14 for my neck and graded to a 16 for waist and an 18 for hips.  This dress looked like it had more ease than it did: hint to self – next time check the final garment measurements instead of assuming.   So much to check.

I did lengthen the dress by 2″, I am 5’6″ tall and wanted it to come to my knee.  As you can see the darts are different then normal darts, but I really liked how these darts shaped my side bust area.  The back has a fish eye dart.

Surprisingly I did not have to do an FBA (Full Bust Adj), which I am currently running a D size right now.  I did do some flat pattern measurements and all seemed ok.

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Fabric Cutting:

Well cutting out the fabric after washing, drying and ironing, I noticed that the fabric tended to wrinkle a lot.  So instead of lining the dress, I decided to take the lining and actually underling the dress.  I cut the same pieces out of the lining and sewed them to my fashion fabric at 3/8″ (simplicity uses 5/8″ seam allowances).  This made the lining and the fashion fabric act as one piece of fabric.

By doing that, it drastically cut out a lot of the wrinkling.

While cutting, I realized that I did not have enough fabric for the sleeve in either color.  So time to create my own sleeve band.

I drafted just a basic band for the sleeve instead of using the pattern sleeve (truthfully, I like mine better!, just saying).

I then pinned the dress together on my sized to me mannequin to make sure it would fit and look right with the new sleeve.

I like it, time to sew.

Sewing:

This was really simple to sew and came together fairly quickly.  The instructions were clear, except for the skirt vent.  I had to watch the wonderful Colleen G. Lea with FSBTV You Tube video on Sewing a Vent that she published in 2012.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLzya7hRUXY

It worked like a charm, thank you Colleen!!!!

The dress called for an invisible zipper and thanks to the Craftsy class “Mastering Construction: Zippers & Waistbands” with Sara Alm, I have finally found the best way to put zippers in.  I love putting in zippers.  She finally made video’s that explained everything.  She had you work with small samples and let me tell you, I find them so easy to put in now.  Thanks Sara!

https://www.craftsy.com/

Just a note, this is my own personal opinion, I did pay for the class.  I have about 65 classes, not watched them all.  I do have ones I don’t like, but this one was worth the money I paid in my opinion for me.  Her teaching on this best suited my style.

I did not line the dress since I underlined the dress.  To tight on the mannequin, I should have known then that there was an issue.  I did use my Serger for all the seam finishing.

I also stitched in the ditch for the collar and neckline.  I did not like the facing flapping all over and securing it at the shoulder seams did not help keep it down.  You can’t even tell with the stitch in the ditch method.

 

I love this dress and it is so my style, simple and easy.  But it is too tight in the hips.  Darn you Ben & Jerry Ice Cream!!!!!

But with my weight fluctuations, I know that will eventually get in this dress and when I do — watch out!!

I do like the front darts and I think they help shape the body nicely.

Don’t mind the little head at the bottom of some pictures, No that is not your imagination, that is my little one trying to see himself on the tablet too!!!!

In all, this dress will definitely be worn a lot when I am in that size range.  Good fit on shoulders, chest and neckline.  Since I did serge I cut off excess fabric so I can’t add more room in hips.

I hate making muslins and with my weight fluctuating so much, I really don’t feel the need to most of the time.

Well, until next time!

 

 

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